Yearly Archives: 2012

Postcard from Lisbon

From the BBC website

Postcard from Lisbon, Portugal

By Marina O’Loughlin, BBC Olive magazine

From the Travel section, posted in the Food & Drink sub-section.

Pictures courtesy of www.lisbon-tourist-guide.com

Lisbon Cafe

I don’t expect to fall in love with Lisbon but I fall as hard as a swooning Regency heroine. This compact, decoratively crumbling city has the lot: swooping views down to the sea, evocative architecture and, most importantly for me, a thriving bar and restaurant scene.

Our hotel is the Tivoli Lisboa on the stately Avenida da Liberdade. At first its blocky exterior isn’t rocking my world, but it grows on us in a big way. The hotel’s Sixties look is rather groovy, baby; the sprawling lobby bar makes you feel like you’re in an episode of The Avengers. And amenities are 100% 21st century.

Terraço, the hotel restaurant, is a serious destination in its own right – the eponymous terrace is a magnet for the city’s beautiful people. Chef Adelaide Fonseca fuses traditional Portuguese recipes with contemporary flair: our meal is stunning, from delicately fried fish – reminding us it was the Portuguese who introduced tempura to Japan – to cataplana, the famous fish stew popular on the Algarve, dotted with coriander and fish-stuffed ravioli, to a reinvention of sericaia, a fluffy, meringue-y hybrid of soufflé and sweet omelette.

Lisboetas have an unashamedly sweet tooth – just think of the famous custard tarts. There are a couple of justifiably

Monument of Christ the King

renowned cafés in the centre of town but they’re on every tourist’s radar. We’re headed to the business district of Saldanha and Café Versailles (Av. da Republica 15, 00351 21 354 6340). Excuse me while I catch my breath; this is the most beautiful Art Nouveau café I’ve ever seen –Paris, eat your heart out. Vast, wood-panelled, mirrored and many-chandeliered, with formally attired waiters and acres of twinkling cabinets groaning with every cake you’ve ever imagined; it’s jaw-droppingly lovely. We have been warned that theLisbonwaiter default mode is grouchy, but they couldn’t be more heavenly. Nor could the thick hot chocolate, muffiny queques, and pastéis de nata either.

Célia Pedroso and Lucy Pepper, authors of the newly published Eat Portugal, take us to Ramiro, a seafood lover’s fetish parlour, every surface piled with sea creatures and a basement rammed with tanks where crabs blow leisurely bubbles until it’s time to meet their fate. I’m a huge fan of Portuguese wine anyway but it truly comes into its own when served with mountains of langoustines, oysters, salt cod croquettes, clams, sizzling, garlicky prawns, an oddly mean steak sandwich, and ripe, silky Portuguese cured ham.

Considerably more upscale is Tavares. This is Belle Epoque at its most gilded, making Café Versailles look positively minimalist. It’s like eating inside a jewellery box. The Michelin-starred chef clearly decided his cooking should match the sensory overload of the surroundings: if there’s a ludicrous spin on a traditional dish, he’s there – dehydration, spherification and miniaturisation a go-go. He’s now moved on; I do hope the latest incumbent lets the surroundings and quality of the ingredients tell their own story.

Lisbon bridge - Ponte 25 de Abril

Like they do at Restaurante Solar dos Nunes. When we arrive for dinner, one exclusively male table is just finishing lunch and taking receipt of what appear to be minihamburger petit fours. Oh, yes please. There’s nothing foofy, just vast amounts of rustic, Alentejo-accented food: ham and whole, oozing sheep’s milk cheeses while you look at the menu; a steaming cast-iron cauldron of pap açorda – like a collision between bread sauce, Tuscan panzanella and Mediterranean fish stew; game birds and hunks of beef.

I think it’s against the law – and if not it should be – to leave Lisbon without a visit to Pastéis de Belém, near the Jerónimos monastery. Here in this cool, traditionally tiled interior, the pastel de nata reaches its apotheosis. Pretentious? Maybe. But I’m prepared to bet it’s the best custard tart anyone has ever tasted.

There’s so much more to love inLisbon. I love the vintage wooden number 28 tram that takes you everywhere you’ll want to go (especially the evocative old Arab quarter, Alfama), guided by surly drivers, rattling along its tracks like some kind of emphysemic rollercoaster. I love the kiosks in the open spaces that sell Portuguese cheesecakes and recherché tinctures and cordials. And the wine bars, such as Chafariz do Vinho, that spring up in unlikely places like this old aqueduct with its miles of subterranean tunnels. Or the psychedelic dream interior of Pavilhão Chines.

And I adore the ginjinha purveyors, teeny holes-in-the-wall that cluster round the main squares selling powerful cherry aguardente totally unique to Lisbon.

You ask for it ‘with’ or ‘without’ – cherries, of course – and nobody bats an eyelid if you neck a few first thing in the morning. I can’t believe it’s taken me so long to get around to this enchanting city. But I’m so, so coming back.

Algarveans Pantomime in Lagoa

Aladdin at the Lagoa Auditorium
2nd, 3rd & 4th February

Amovate member Trevor Herrington is in the chorus mainly to help with the singing plus a minor role as a possible suitor for the lovely Princess Jasmine (He gets rejected).  It really is a show full of laughs and several funny songs with plenty of audience participation.

Also attached is the Algarveans newsletter, “Spotlight” which readers may find interesting Spotlight K Jan 2012

Meeting at Centro de Saude

Amovate is told:

“Nobody will be without a doctor.”

Amovate President Peter Johnson, General Assembly Vice-President Maria Franca and Matt D’Arcy, responsible for Press and Public Relations, have held a meeting with a senior official at the Health Centre in Aljezur to clarify a number of concerns among the ex-pat community.

We met with Dr Dulce Moreno, head of the Public Health department, to ask about changes not only at the Clinic, but also nationally by the Ministry of Health, and to discuss how those changes will affect the community.

We also wanted to bring to their attention concerns raised by members and residents about the lack of Family GPs at the Centre, making it difficult for people to make appointments or to see a doctor locally, avoiding journeys to Portimão orLagos.

Dra Dulce first assured us that she would be available, by appointment, to members of the community every Monday afternoon to discuss any issues they wish to raise regarding the Health Centre and their treatment there.

Although she doesn’t speak English she, like all the staff at the Health Centre, now has computer access to a translation website and this is now available at all consultations where there is a language problem.

Naturally, anyone not speaking Portuguese may still find it preferable to have a translator with them, where possible. But at least the computer solution is a significant step forward.

She also said she was quite happy for Amovate to communicate with her regularly via e-mail to discuss any issues raised by our members.

Between us we worked out a system by which members can e-mail their questions to Amovate and we will collect them together and draw up one general e-mail containing all those issues to send to Dra Dulce, who would reply directly to Amovate.

Then her communications would be posted on the Amovate website under a special Section headed Health Centre.

This would save the Health Centre being flooded with queries, many of which will almost certainly be duplicated, and channel everything through one simple medium.

As far as the question of availability of doctors is concerned she did say there was a shortage of medics on the Algarve, most especially here on the West Coast where it is not only difficult to attract doctors but even more difficult to get them to stay once they accept a position here.

As everyone knows the most recent departure is Dr Tiago Cruz, although Dr Anna and Dr Eduardo Carvajal remain at their posts.

However, the VERY good news is that from the beginning of February—Dra Dulce doesn’t yet know the exact date—three new doctors are arriving in Aljezur from Cuba….doctors who she assures us WILL remain at their jobs for the foreseeable future.

These new doctors, who all have some English, have signed minimum two-year contracts with the Health Centre and will live and work entirely in Aljezur, guaranteeing their presence on a daily basis.

And to pick up some of the slack on a temporary basis another doctor will be coming on duty at the Health Centre on Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays up to the end of the month to see—by appointment—patients who currently do not have a family doctor.

Dra Dulce assures us that, once the Cuban doctors arrive, all patients registered at the Health Centre will have their own family doctor.

“Nobody will be without a doctor,” was her reassuring promise.

On a national level the economic problems besetting Portugal are forcing some major changes within the country’s National Health Service.

You can get full information (including an English translation by clicking the Union Flag icon on the top right hand corner) on this website:

www.arsalgarve.min-saude.pt

Also, if you Google Portal da Saude you will be shown a list of websites all offering daily information relating to the Ministry of Health, although you may have to run these through Google’s translation software.

Using this service you can select the health centre you wish to visit, go to its web page and there you can find all the relevant information.

Maria will go through these websites to furnish us with a fuller idea of what relates to us in the next couple of days or so, but just to summarise, there will be some additional charges coming into effect for medical treatment.

Dra Dulce assures us that any exemptions you currently have on prescription charges, for example (i.e. diabetics etc) will continue to be honoured.

But there will be increased costs for consultations with your doctor, and for things like X-rays, scans etc.

Any person can apply to be exempt from doctors’ fees etc, by downloading and filling out the relevant form. You fill out all your details, including fiscal number etc, and the Health Ministry will establish if you are, indeed, exempt.

One other point raised by Dra Dulce:

She says ex-pats in Vale da Telha and the surrounding districts may not be aware that the Health Centre operates a free home care medical service for anyone who is housebound and in need of long-term medical attention.

These people will receive continuous medical treatment at home, via the services of a doctor, nurse, even a physiotherapist where necessary.

This service, available right across the Aljezur Camara, is restricted to medical services, not to cleaning etc.

So, if you know anyone who is housebound and not receiving medical care at home, please give their details to the Health Centre and that omission will be corrected.

Once Maria has finished accessing the various websites we hope to be able to give you additional information here regarding costs of treatment etc.