Category Archives: Features

Save Salgados

Amovate Member Says Save Salgados

Amovate member Faith Clement has drawn our attention to this ongoing debate. She says she feels it is an important enough issue to highlight here on our website.

From the Algarve Daily News:

Silves Câmara signs deal for another huge resort next to Salgados

The permissions for a massive development next to the Salgados bird sanctuary to the east of Armaçao de Pêra has been signed  in Silves. An investment of more than €232 million will boost jobs in the area, and Silves Câmara’s coffers by €35 million over ten years in license income, stamp duty and rates.

“This is a project that allows to the development of this specific area of ​​the county,” said Isabel Soares, president Silves Câmara (CMS), who added that the development “will give greater sustainability to everything that is planned in relation to tourism, based on our Strategic Development Plan of the municipality.”

The project by Finalgarve-Sociedade de Promoção Imobiliaria Turistica S.A. includes three hotels, five holiday villages, shops, roads and an 18 hole golf course.

According to Francisco Menezes Ferreira of holding company Grupo Galilei, representing developer subsiduary Finalgarve, the infrastructure will be built starting in 2013. In 2015, if everything goes as planned, the first tourists can be catered for with the completion of the infrastructure and the building of the first hotel.

One of the main benefits of this development plan, according to those promoting it, is jobs, 1,516 of them that will have a positive impact on the local economy. “These job numbers are of the utmost importance, especially when the Algarve is the region with the highest unemployment rate in the country. Silves feels the need to help out in the labour market, especially for our young people,” Isabel Soares said.

Another significant benefit to Silves Câmara is additional revenue over ten years of an estimated €35 million.

“Putting Silves on the regional and national map (and even international) by increasing the attractiveness of our territory, and by asserting our identity and introducing innovation and knowledge as tools for everyday work,” said Soares, stating that Silves “has a glorious legacy, which is important to preserve and promote. Silves also has excellent natural resources, among which is the beautiful Praia Grande…the signing of this agreement is to make sure that this (tourism) strategy comes to fruition.”

The first phase will cover ​​247 hectares, and the final project will have covered 359 hectares. The first of the two five-star hotels is planned to be completed in mid 2017, the second in late 2018 and the four-star hotel is scheduled for completion in mid 2023.

The Finalgarve website describes the project thus “Localizado em Silves, no sul do País, este futuro resort de luxo desenvolve-se ao longo de 3 Km de praias privadas. Desenvolvido numa área de cerca de 247 ha de vegetação única no país, realçando toda a beleza, o conforto e a serenidade do local, este empreendimento, de qualidade superior, prevê 3 Unidades hoteleiras de 5 estrelas, 5 Aldeamentos turísticos, com acesso directo à praia e um campo de golf de 18 buracos.”

Comment by Objectors to the scheme:

How the destruction, partial ot total, of a well known wildlife zone and the impact on the adjacent bird sanctuary at Salgados, a name that was missing from today’s announcement from Silves Câmara, can preserve Silves’ glorious natural legacy remains to be seen.

The development does not include the lagoon area vital to birdlife, but the impact of many years of planned construction will certainly impact on the settled nature of this habitat.

Pressure groups have had more than four years in which to oppose developemnt of this area of open countryside yet have not achieved a ban. Whatever designation has been given to the area may have been bulldozed by the new plans but it is hoped that a wildlife development project has been incorporated, similar to the successful one put into place by the water company subsequent to building the Odelouca reservoir.

The developer’s spokesman stated that “there is nothing equal to this piece of land in southern Portugal or southern Spain.”

So again we see that big business gets its way, the Câmara has additonal income to prop up its accounts , and only now do we sit up and realise that another part of Portugal’s wildlife areas is to be developed into more of the same.

However the Grupo Galilei chariman’s statement that he may have to lay off 1,500 staff is the company has to pay the €250,000 fine imposed in the wake of the BNP scandal, means the project based on the promise of new jobs may never get started.

Soares’ statement in Portuguese

“Afirmar Silves no panorama regional e nacional (e até internacional) passa por aumentar a atratividade do nosso território, afirmando a nossa identidade e introduzindo a inovação e o conhecimento como ferramentas quotidianas de trabalho.”

“Silves possui um legado histórico glorioso, que é importante preservar e dar a conhecer, e que é, em si mesmo, mais um fator diferenciador e promotor do progresso, como tenho vindo a afirmar. Possui, igualmente, excelentes recursos naturais, entre os quais a belíssima Praia Grande, localizada na Freguesia de Pêra, fatores que nos permitem ambicionar mais e melhor no que toca à oferta turística relacionada com o sol e o mar e a assinatura deste contrato é a certeza de que essa estratégia chegará a bom porto», concluiu a autarca.”

There is an online petition you can sign to protest at the plans if you feel something needs to be done. At the last count 8,603 people had signed it.

As the petition introduction says:

Why this is important

Right now the Portuguese Government has just given the go-ahead for the majority of the area, 359 hectares, (887 acres), to be “developed”. By developed they mean “to be concreted over” and thus lost to the wildlife that finds it vital now and also lost for the enjoyment of future generations. Any development near this important area will have a hugely detrimental impact on the wildlife that uses it.

It will never come back; it’ll be gone for ever.

When will Man realize that he is not the only animal on the planet?

The Algarve does not need more hotels, golf courses or holiday accommodation – all of which stand now at 55% occupancy. What it DOES need is an appreciation of its unique habitats and the wildlife that depends upon them.

Please help us get the signatures that we need for this matter to be raised in Parliament.

We need you – you’re our only hope!

As Chief Seattle said, “Only when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize that we cannot eat money”.

Click on the link below and sign the petition

https://secure.avaaz.org/en/petition/Save_Salgados_a_unique_internationally_recognized_birding_sanctuary_from_being_destroyed/

Jubilee Celebrations At The Karisma

Thankfully, here on the sunny Algarve’s west coast, we can sing “Long To Reign Over Us” without thinking it could easily be “long to rain over us!”

And that meant, unlike the folks back home, the Queen’s Jubilee Celebrations at the Karisma were enjoyed in sunshine…not to mention starlight!

Not that it was a dry occasion—enough liquid of the alcoholic variety flowed to re-launch the Royal Yacht Britannia!

The event kicked off at 1pm and went on for longer than most people cared to remember. In fact, let’s face it—if Cinderella had been there she’d have lost a glass slipper as midnight came and went!

But the 100-plus revellers (and not all were Brits paying homage to their Queen’s longevity on the throne) really entered into the spirit of things; so much so there were moments when one would have thought the Royal Family themselves were amongst us…until we realised they were convincing face masks!

Anyway, enough talk—just browse through the pictures supplied by Ogy and re-live what was a wonderful and regal day on Vale da Telha…

(And don’t forget—if you want to download any or all of them just right click on the picture and press “save”).

May 2012 Interview with Sargento Gabriel

Sargento Gabriel Reis

**SEE BELOW FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION FROM SARGENTO GABRIEL

It could be called “an open and shut case.”

We’re talking about the latest bizarre crime to hit the area.

First of all let us assure anyone not au fait with life in the Vale da Telha area that official crime figures here have been falling year-on-year.

And that was coming down from a very low level to begin with, as this is probably one of the safest areas to live, not just in the Algarve but in the whole of Portugal.

But no area is entirely without some problems and our local GNR do have the occasional incident to deal with.

In the last couple of days they had one incident reported on Vale da Telha which fell outside the normal parameter of thefts, although a similar incident occured a week or two earlier in Odeceixe at the extreme northern edge of their territory.

One of our residents woke on on Wednesday morning to find four of his SHUTTERS had been stolen from his windows during the night!

It seems that if you leave them open they can quite easily be lifted from their hinges, and carted away by opportunist thieves who sell them to make a little money.

Needless to say it’s not just worrying to realise that someone has been prowling around your property at night, but two sets of shutters are also expensive to replace.

Aljezur police commander Sargento Gabriel Reis, a Vale da Telha resident and a member of Amovate’s committee, has been talking to us about crime prevention, etc., in his quarterly briefing with the website.

The advice is to make sure all your shutters are closed at night—once closed they cannot be lifted off their hinges. But remember, again, that whilst thefts like this are disturbing for the people affected, they are extremely isolated incidents.

As we said at the outset this is a hugely safe and secure area in which to live. And as we want to keep it that way Gabriel has again been offering some advice to residents about how to achieve that.

He was full of praise, for instance for Amovate General Assembly President John Bergstrom-Potter, who flagged—via his and Sarah Sibbert’s Vale da Telha website—an attempted break-in in Sector E. Bergy was online within a few minutes of the incident occuring, requesting residents to be on the look-out for would-be thieves in the area.

As Bergy also pointed out: Phone the GNR if you suspect anyone of just hanging around or if they trespass on an empty property. Make sure you lock your doors even if you are just popping up to the rubbish bins.

And earlier this year Trevor Herrington in Sector G worked closely with the GNR identifying a property in his road which he felt was the target of criminals, notifying and then working with the GNR to expose an audacious theft of the fixtures and fittings of an empty house where the owners were living in the UK.

The burglar had even drilled out and changed the front door lock!

Eventually, thanks to Trevor’s vigilance, the GNR had a suspect and may even be able to trace some of the stolen property as he was able to identify one of the cars seen at the house.

As Trevor told us: “Essentially residents need to be vigilant of empty properties and report suspicious activity to the GNR.

“It also raises other issues about leaving contact details with someone, especially the GNR.”

That is the kind of thing the GNR encourage—residents working together to keep watch on their own and their neighbours’ properties and alerting the community to any suspicious activity.

If it does happen that would-be thieves come into the area it could be a powerful deterrent that they come to realise they are being watched and their movements monitored and reported.

It would certainly be a help if every one of us had the GNR telephone number readily available by the phone, or—better still—programmed into the phone wherever possible.

They can be found at:

GUARDA NATIONAL REPUBLICANA DE ALJEZUR

Rua da Escola

Igreja Nova

8670-063 Aljezur

Tel. 282 998130

The GNR say people should inform them when they are leaving their villas unoccupied, either going back to the UK, or any other country of origin for a holiday or a visit, or if they are residents in another country and have a holiday house here in the Aljezur area, particularly Vale da Telha and the surrounding areas.

They can call into the GNR office to tell the officers the dates the villa is unoccupied, or e-mail the information to them. Gabriel’s e-mail address at the GNR station is:

reis.jgas@gnr.pt

“We do take this seriously,” he said. “Even if your villa has an alarm or security system the added back-up of a highly visible police patrol checking the property on a regular basis doubles the deterrent.

“It’s not something we take lightly–not only do my officers make these visits, and have to record them on a check-list document, I make my own checks on the property and then ask questions of my officers regarding details they could only know if they had been there themselves.

“This way, I know the property HAS been visited, not just driven past.”

Gabriel also recommends the “Safe Communities” project supported by this website. It was set up by former Interpol, UN and Hong Kong police officer  David Thomas, who now lives near Boliqueime, and has become involved in community work in the Algarve regarding crime prevention.

He has been helping the GNR and the civil authorities here in respect of crime prevention and at the end of last year he launched Safe Communities Algarve a website dedicated to crime prevention, and the only one of its type in Portugal.

David says the working relationship between the Aljezur GNR and Amovate is a model to follow, and has asked us to also work with his project.

His website address is:

www.safecommunitiesalgarve.com

*           *           *           *

Obviously, with summer on the horizon and the warmer weather with us, we should all be careful to make sure windows and doors that are out of sight when we are using our pools or just sunbathing, are closed and secured against opportunistic thieves.

And all garden tools, etc, should be locked away when they are not being used.

Sargento Gabriel says that one of the GNR’s biggest headaches is the issue of people leaving valuables in their cars in full view of anyone passing, especially on and around Aljezur’s beautiful beaches.

He says you might as well put a sign in your car window saying: “Break in and steal me.”

He repeated the advice he has issued before:

“Really, it goes without saying that you should not leave any valuables at all in the car, not just to put them out of sight.

“Opportunist thieves tend not to break into cars where they cannot see anything of value. But there are exceptions to the rule and once a thief has broken or forced a window and got into the car they can then open the boot and take any valuables left there.

“So take only what you need on the beach, and don’t leave any of that in your vehicle.

“And of course, while you are relaxing on the beach make sure that when you go away from your ‘base camp’, to swim or maybe to go and buy a drink or ice cream, at least one person always stays behind to guard your belongings.”

Gabriel also advises you not to leave personal effects like your driver’s licence and passport in your glove compartments.

“When you go out in your car within the Aljezur region you can carry a copy of your licence and your passport, which will service as identification should my officers stop you,” he said. “That will be sufficient in this area, although other areas may want to see the original documents.

“It would also help, but is not absolutely neccessary, that this copy has been signed by a solicitor or notary to help verify the details.”

So, whether you have taken a drive out to one of those beaches, either for a swim or to use of the beach bars, or your visitors and guests are planning a day on the beach, remember Gabriel’s advice:

  • If possible leave all your valuables at home.
  • Whatever you felt you needed to take to the beach, either lock it in the boot of your car out of sight, or take it with you when you exit your vehicle.

*           *           *           *

One growing problem causing the GNR some concern is the number of cars speeding on the main roads through Vales and Vale da Telha, especially the wide thoroughfare from the Pines roundabout down past the tennis courts heading for Monte Clerigo.

Gabriel says this developing into a serious problem and his officers are now on the lookout for offenders. He warns he could even be forced to borrow a speed radar camera from Lagos if the problem doesn’t cease.

Amovate has talked to the Camara about installing speed bumps much like the permanent fixtures located in Marmelete on the road towards Monchique. But, again, budget issues have raised their ugly head.

Amovate does feel that the considerable sums of money flowing down the hill into the Camara’s coffers from the Vale da Telha area never manage to flow back UP the hill to be spent on improvements in this area.

And that is something we plan to tackle head on with the Camara in the coming months as we feel VdT is wilfully neglected by the Camara President and his officials, despite their high-sounding promises when we meet with them.

Incidentally, while we are on the subject of the road from the Pines roundabout towards Monte Clerigo, residents should realise that you cannot legally park on the far side of the road opposite Roque’s supermarket.

One problem is that the Camara has positioned the sign warning of this too far away and people don’t always realise it is an offence.

And the GNR are concerned about some rather careless parking outside Roque’s even where it is OK to park. To use an expression from back home they want you to “park prettily” and don’t leave your car a few feet from the kerbside, or at an angle, or even double-parked as sometimes happens.

Gabriel also says that they have recorded incidents in the late evenings of cars having to swerve at the last moment to avoid people out walking, or cycling in dark clothing.

Obviously cyclists should ensure they have front and rear lights on their bikes. But both cyclists and walkers can minimise the danger to themselves by wearing brightly coloured clothing or even the fluorescent jackets of the type required by drivers at the site of a vehicle breakdown, and which are cheap enough to buy.

*           *           *           *

One last issue again raised by residents is an old subject but one that keeps coming back – DOGS.

But as Gabriel observed drily when we broached the subject with him: “Dogs are not the problem—owners are!”

He says it is something they are constantly attempting to address, and revealed that Sector E has the biggest problem, with dogs getting loose, chasing cars, foulling the streets, attacking other dogs walking with their owners.

Unfortunately, we understand that the Camara has dispensed with the veterinarian as part of their cost-cutting measures which has effectively tied the hands of the GNR when it comes to dealing with this nuisance.

As an organisation Amovate really feels the Camara should be more pro-active in controlling the problem.

The police go to the villas, talk to the owners and they are even fined –twice in the case of one owner we are aware of.

Gabriel says they will continue to do this. But Amovate’s own advice is for groups of neighbours suffering in this regard to approach the errant owners reasonably and responsibly, ask for a friendly discussion and point out just how upsetting the situation is, asking for the owner’s co-operation in resolving the issue.

If that doesn’t work, they should, as a group, make the owner aware that their next step will be to involve the police. Hopefully, this will be enough of a deterrent to make him control his dogs.

If it doesn’t…then INVOLVE the police!!

Have a safe and enjoyable summer,

THE AMOVATE COMMITTEE.

**Sergeant Gabriel has been back in touch with us to warn us of a potential new threat to home security.

And the bottom line is to check the ID of everyone coming to your home expecting access for one of the utility companies, or a “cold-calling” visitor trying to sell something.

An Arrifana resident, discovering his computer phone connection wasn’t working, rang PT to report the fault.

Two hours later a man came to the door, said he was from PT, stepped into the house, checked the box on the wall, put everything back, gave the resident a number to call, and left.

The connection still wasn’t working, so he rang the number he’d been given, and there was no answer.

He then rang the original PT number and was told no-one had yet been sent out.

It’s difficult to pinpoint what happened—whether the caller had interfered with the line outside the house to disconnect it, before returning later, saying he’d come to repair it, or perhaps he knew with the power failures some houses could have a problem.

Either way, by gaining access this individual could have been “casing the joint” as they say, checking the layout and whether there was anything worth stealing.

Gabriel says it is important that householders allow no-pone into their homes before carefully checking they are who they say they are. It might even mean asking that caller to wait outside while the householder rings PT or EDP to check they have sent someone.

The simple message is—be alert and be careful!

Teatro do Campo Raise Money for NECI

Left to Right - Kay Philbin, Eduarda Santos (President of NECI) and Leni Eves

 By Leni Eves,  Vale da Telha, Aljezur

Last month our local Teatro do Campo group from the Aljezur area presented another variety show at the Adega da Craveira. We decided that the money raised from the ticket sales and collections would be donated to NECI which is located near Luz.

NECI  stands for Nucleo de Educacao da Crianca Inadaptada. This charity helps children and adults with physical and learning difficulties.

I visited NECI with Jim and Kay Philbin on Monday 7thMay to meet the President, Senhora Maria Eduarda Santos. We were given an amazingly warm welcome and thoroughly enjoyed our visit there.

Eduarda Santos and Jim Philbin

We were shown around the facilities by one of the many caring staff. Some people working there have been unpaid volunteers for many years. Children from 0 to 6 years can receive therapy here as well as being able to participate in various activities alongside their normal kindergarten experience.

A calming therapy room

A gym at the centre

Once they become adults, they can return here to use the facilities and this also gives their relatives a short break from the intensive and continuous care they need.  As well as the play areas, gym, computers, arts and crafts, they are also taken to enjoy horse riding and swimming. There is some funding given by the Social Security but any extra donations enable them to enjoy a more varied and richer experience of life.

NECI has launched a fundraising appeal for equipment for its new residential centre which will provide accommodation

The new residential centre in Montinhos da Luz

Our lasting impression of NECI was the love that was obviously present there.  The staff are not only their teachers but also their carers and their “family” too.

If you are involved in any fund raising activities in the future, please have a look at the NECI website – www.neci.pt and consider donating to them.  Thank you. 


Susan & Brian’s Arabian Nights – Part 1

 

By Matt D’Arcy

 

 

 

 

Part 1

SUSAN AND BRIAN JUTSUM recently spent almost two months experiencing the Arabian culture and lifestyle of Morocco, becoming immersed not just in the tourist-friendly big city centres but also living, eating and sleeping amongst the tribal peoples of the High Atlas, the deserts and the Deep Gorges.

Susan & Brian's Route

The Amovate members, who live on Vale da Telha, made the crossing from Spain to Ceuta in Morocco on December 27th and returned home mid-February after the ambitious adventure in their motor home, accompanied everywhere by their dog Sofie.

Susan kept a daily diary of their travels and also took thousands of photographs, enabling us to post this story of their Arabian Adventures here on the Amovate website.

The changes in culture across this short distance over the Straits of Gibraltar made a huge impact on the Jutsums—but in a more positive way than they had imagined.

“We had a truly memorable time, made even better by the people we met, the truly magnificent scenery and the diversity of Morocco; sand, snow, heat and cold,” they said. “It was probably more of an experience than a holiday.”

The overriding memories of the encounter with such a different culture, beliefs and values which they took away are: “Children, donkeys, markets, camels, mud houses, carpets, scenery, to name but a few.”

They added: “It was colder than we had expected and contrary to what we had been led to believe, very much safer.  Not once did we feel unsafe or threatened, and we could never say that about the UK or Spain!

“Food for thought, perhaps; no alcohol helps?”

On arrival they camped in Maril, on the seaside near Tetouan, south of the ferry port of Ceuta where their first impressions were:

“It was all so clean, street cleaners everywhere and no litter. You could eat your dinner from the pavements. Every man seems to smoke but no tab ends anywhere. It feels a lot safer than last night in Spain near the Port.”

But those impressions of cleanliness were to change as they moved away from the tourist areas, Susan explaining:

“The rubbish and litter problems everywhere else were overwhelming and I think by the time we were on the way back home we had become anaesthetised to the litter; Portugal is so clean and immaculate by comparison.

“The litter problem in Morocco is horrendous especially with plastic bags they are strewn across fields everywhere you go. Largely Morocco has no infrastructure and no education so big problems are being stored for the future.

“Would we recommend Morocco for a holiday? NO!  The only way to see the real Morocco is as an independent traveller, under your own steam, not as a tourist. Not many people we know would cope with the sanitary arrangements and the rubbish.”

But Susan and Brian emphasise that this, albeit literally, was the only blot on the landscape of a country where the people were warm-hearted, friendly and hospitable, where the scenery was spectacular and spellbinding and where a mere seven weeks has left the legacy of a lifetime of happy and vivid memories.

+++

Here, Sofie the dog insists she has something to contribute to this recollection.

“I loved all the amazing smells—after all we dogs don’t recognise bad smells, we just appreciate the thousands and thousands of scents we can explore.

“But Morocco was a canine culture shock for me, too. I was terribly confused because we dogs like to scent other dogs when we need to wee-wee or have a little poo but no-one there keeps dogs, so I had no scents to sniff out. I just had to leave my own.

“Muslims apparently don’t keep dogs (what strange people!) and not only did some of the Arab people avoid me, some of the children screamed.

“But when we went deeper into the country with the Berber people it was really nice place because the Berbers, and especially the children, all smiled at me and petted me. I became quite an attraction but then what would you expect as I am a very nice dog, even though I do say so myself.

Sofie On A Donkey

“I was quite a celebrity there and my owners, Susan and Brian, just about coped with the hordes of Berber children who are not frightened of me unlike the Arabs.

“So they have to tell them I bite or they would have no peace and no Sofie, because the children all wanted to hold me and lead me away.

“At one point I even had a ride on a donkey which was quite nice as it gave me a rest and a new vantage point to watch this wonderful new world go by.”

+++

The Jutsums first full day in Morocco saw them head off to Chefchaouen, a town tucked away in the Rif Mountains and a place where hashish and cannabis is grown.

In Moulay Idriss, fabulously situated between two hills they bought top quality fillet steak for 7 euros a kilo. In the small intimate Medina they went inside an olive oil pressing shop where the olives are pressed in a similar way to the way Susan and Brian press apples on the land they own in Rogil, but with mats between the olives. The waste skins are then used as fertiliser.

Susan recalled: “The workshop looked quite Dickensian with the Berber watching over proceedings and of course they would allow no photographs to be taken.

“Everyone here owns a donkey, and you would not want to be a woman – they work so very hard, and the men drink mint tea all day. But people look happy.”

From there they moved on to Volubilis, the World Heritage site of the best-preserved Roman town in Morocco, where, for one euro each, they spent a good 3 hours wandering in the sun looking at mosaics and the remnants of houses.

They then saw in the New Year in Fes, where they were in bed for 11pm, with nothing at all happening on their campsite, 7 km from the town.

From there they visited the Medina, which was huge about 1 1/2 k diagonally across.

“We had to have a guide to show us the tanneries where the animals are taken for skinning and the hides made into leather,” said Susan. “We saw all the processes, and the workers still use their feet to press the hides. “Apparently by about 45 years-old they have to pass the job on to another family member as they develop arthritis in the feet and toes.

“The Petite Taxi back was to say the least interesting, like a chase scene from a film, cars everywhere, horns going and the taxi going up the wrong side of the road in 40 minutes of excitement we could do without, and all for 2.4 euros.”

Next port of call was Taza, Susan admitting: “I read a blog on the Internet saying don’t go to Taza so we did—not to the town, but to the National Park, Jbel Tazzeka, which meant 139 fabulous kilometres of driving around 6,000 ft high middle Atlas gorges.

“We stayed one night wild camping, no phone, no Internet just us, no problems whatsoever, except for the cold! It is 24 degrees in the day and -5 at night and not a breath of wind anywhere.

“The cold at night gets into your bones; it really penetrates. We had to sleep in the van with the heating on all night

Cave Interior

“We visited a fabulous cave here, not a show cave, really beautiful with a depth of half a mile, and no artificial lighting. If you know Alum Pot in Yorkshire this knocks it into a cocked hat so to speak.

“It was quite gruelling managing almost 600 stone steps carved out of the walls, some 18ins deep and wide and some 3 ins deep. It also meant crawling under deep overhangs, pitches and ladders—lots of clean underwear required after this!

“After one hour when we got to the bottom of the first section (the 580 steps) we had to do a strenuous climb. I pulled a groin muscle and started feeling faint, and as I did not want to stop Brian seeing the only thing he wanted to see they went on without me.

“The descent took us down and down over planks across water and more ladders and pitches. We had our own caving equipment—we wouldn’t have been allowed in without it—but had to have a guide. He was a great kid only 15, and a member of the family who owned the cave.

“I waited in the dark for an hour and managed to get down from my perch and climb up alone until a difficult under climb where I waited again for their return one hour later.

“It was exhilarating and the climb up tough, the spirit is always willing but the bones are a little older than when we did a lot of this in our 30’s in Yorkshire. Emerging back out into the sunshine was lovely.

“Three days later we were both still aching, but it was worth it.”

Susan continued: “Around this national park people don’t even have a donkey as they are too poor.

1st Snowfall In Skoura Desert For 30 Years

“From Taza we drove down a desert road passing Guercif and down to Midelt in the foothills of the High Atlas. This was a

High Atlas at Ain Leuh

long road but lovely scenery passing only goat and camel herdsmen. They all give you a wave and a salute, and seeing our first grazing camels was a lovely sight.

“In Midelt the carpet traders here speak English. Our French is coming on nicely as, up until now, there was no English spoken at all, apart from in Fes. People are more used to tourists here.”

The following day Susan and Brian began their journey to the High Atlas and Deep Gorges, starting in the town of Rich.

“This is where our holiday will really start,” she wrote.” We can camp in the desert with the tribespeople, which sounds great.”

 

 

 

READ PART 2 For the next instalment…………………………..

 

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